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eBay 1. What Is an Ignition Coil? The ignition coil functions as part of the ignition system, alongside the switch battery, alternator, spark plugs and distributor. Your vehicle’s ignition coil converts the low current from a car battery into enough power to ignite the fuel and start the engine. When there is a problem with an ignition coil, it can cause a range of mechanical and performance issues. 2. Types of Ignition Coils: Distributor coils: This type of ignition coil uses a mechanically driven distributor mechanism. It’s usually found on older vehicles and was very common until the 1990s. Ignition Coil For Fiat 500 1.4L 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 68070492AB 1. What Is an Ignition Coil? The ignition coil functions as part of the ignition system, alongside the switch battery, alternator, spark plugs and distributor. Your vehicle’s ignition coil converts the low current from a car battery into enough power to ignite the fuel and start the engine. When there is a problem with an ignition coil, it can cause a range of mechanical and performance issues. 2. Types of Ignition Coils: Distributor coils: This type of ignition coil uses a mechanically driven distributor mechanism. It’s usually found on older vehicles and was very common until the 1990s. Pencil coils/coil-on-plug ignition coils: This type of coil is mounted right on top of the spark plug. This means the high-voltage pulse is generated directly at spark plug, without the need for cables, so there’s no loss of voltage. It’s also a very compact design and doesn’t take up much space in the engine bay, which is why they’re commonly used in modern cars. Ignition coil packs: Coil packs have multiple pencil coils mounted within a single, compact unit known as a “rail”. This is then fitted across a row of several spark plugs. Can ignition coils: Very old and vintage vehicles often have canister-type ignition coils. Some versions are even filled with oil, which acts as an insulator and helps cool the coil, while others use a more modern solid insulator. They’re usually found in cars with breaker-type ignition systems. 3. Symptoms of a bad ignition coil There’s a chance you’ll never need to replace an ignition coil on your car, but if it is necessary, you’ll have symptoms show up. For other issues, symptoms can be intermittent but a failed coil almost always has constant problems. Signs of a bad ignition coil can include: A Check Engine Light. There will be a constant misfire in the cylinder associated with the bad coil, and the Check Engine Light will illuminate with related codes. The engine won’t run as well as it did. Effectively, you have a dead cylinder when the ignition coil isn’t working. It can feel like the engine is stumbling or about to stall. Your emissions will be higher. Because unburned fuel is being pushed into the exhaust, you may notice a raw fuel smell from the tailpipe or black smoke indicating a rich condition. Your fuel efficiency will drop. The other cylinders need to compensate for the issue, so more fuel is consumed as you drive. Your engine might not start. Especially if you have more than one bad coil or if you have an older car with a points system, electronic coil, or distributor-less coil, the engine might not fire up at all. 4. How to test an ignition coil? While the symptoms we’ve shared above could all be signs of a bad ignition coil, it’s not necessarily a guarantee that this is the cause of the problem, as another part of the ignition system or engine could be to blame. So, you’ll want to test the function of the ignition coil to confirm that it’s defective before you carry out any repairs. Step 1: Prep the car and get ready Start by parking your car on an even surface and engaging the handbrake. Wait for the engine to cool down fully, then disconnect the negative battery cable. Step 2: Find the resistance Next, check your car owner’s handbook to find the correct resistance reading for your car’s ignition coil. This is measured in ohms (indicated by the symbol) and is usually specified as a range rather than an exact figure. Step 3: Locate the coil Locate the ignition coil. Exactly where this will be depends on the make and model of car and the type of coil, but it’s normally located right above the engine or mounted on top of the spark plugs. Step 4: Disconnect the coil Remove any plastic covers or harnessing which may be covering the ignition coils. Step 5: Test the primary wire Locate the primary wire. This is normally made of heavy wire and receives energy from the battery. Connect the multimeter’s positive and negative leads to the corresponding terminals on the coil. Take the reading on the multimeter and compare it to the recommended resistance reading for the primary winding given in your owner’s manual. The resistance on the primary is normally around 0.4 to 2 ohms for most cars, but it can vary from vehicle to vehicle. If the reading doesn’t fall within the correct range, it’s defective and the coil should be replaced. Step 6: Test the secondary wire Next, test the secondary wire. This will be thinner than the primary winding, with many more coils. Connect the multimeter to the positive terminal and the high-output terminal that connects to the spark plug. Take a reading and compare it with the resistance stated in the handbook. For most cars, this will around 6,000 to 10,000 ohms. Again, if the reading doesn’t match up, you’ll need to replace the entire ignition coil. Step 7: Repeat until all coils in the unit have been tested If your coil has several coils inside one unit, you’ll need to keep repeating steps 5 and 6 until all the primary and secondary winding’s in the coils have been tested. Step 8: Finish up Remove the multimeter. If all the resistance readings were within the specified range, and you can’t see any visible signs of damage or wear and tear, you can re-install the coils and replace the mounting bolts. Remember to re-attach the negative battery cable before you close the bonnet. If the testing revealed the coils to be faulty, you can take out the defective coil and fit a replacement. Skip to step 4 of the section below to find out how to do this. If the coils seem fine but you’re still having trouble with the ignition system, you may want to take your car to a professional. 7. How To Change an Ignition Coils? Before you start work, gather the following tools and equipment: A replacement ignition coil. Something to label loose cables with, like coloured tape or marking pens. This isn’t essential, but it can make the job a bit easier. Protective gloves. A set of hand tools, including a wrench, screwdriver set, socket set, and ratchet. The owner’s handbook. It may also help to have the relevant Haynes manual for your car, although this is not essential. Step 1: Prepare the car Park the car on a level surface and engage the handbrake to keep it steady. Then, disconnect the negative battery terminal. Tip: You should always disconnect the negative battery cable during any of your car’s electrical systems. This will ensure you don’t accidentally ground the circuit, which can give you a nasty shock and potentially damage your car. Step 2: Locate the coil Find the ignition coil inside the engine bay. The owner’s handbook can help you with this if you’re unsure. Step 3: Disconnect and remove the coil Find the mounting bolts and screws that attach the coil to the vehicle. Using your hand tools, remove each of the bolts and set aside. You will also need to disconnect the electrical connectors that link the coil to the car.You’ll need to make sure that the wires are attached to the corresponding terminals on the new ignition coil, so it may help to label each wire using some tape or a marker pen to help you keep track of which is which.The ignition coil should pop off easily once these are removed. Set it to one side. Step 4: Fit the replacement ignition coil Install the new ignition coil. Reconnect the electrical cables first — if there are multiple cables, be very careful to make sure you connect each one to the corresponding terminal on the new coil. Replace the mounting bolts or screws last and tighten them. There’s no need to overtighten them, as this could damage or break them. They only need to be tight enough to keep the ignition coil securely attached. Step 5: Check your work Once the new coil is fitted, you’ll want to test it using a multimeter to make sure it’s working correctly. To do this, follow the method for testing the ignition coil outlined above. If everything seems to be working well, you can re-connect the negative battery cable and lower the hood. Then, try turning the engine on. If the engine starts normally, you can go for a test drive. If the engine fails to start or takes a few tries to turn over, you may want to check that the electrical connections between the ignition coil and the car are sound. If the engine still does not work after this, you will need to take your car to a professional mechanic for further testing. 8. Where Is a Vehicle’s Ignition Coil? The location of your vehicle’s ignition coil or coils depends on its make and model. Some vehicles have an ignition coil attached to every spark plug on the top of the engine block. Others have a single coil that ignites every spark plug in the engine. Furthermore, you may have a vehicle that has a cluster of ignition coils in a single pack. 9. Why Do Ignition Coils Fail? Most ignition coils are durable components, but they are neither indestructible nor designed to last forever. Ignition coils tend to fail because of bad spark plugs or plug wires. If your vehicle’s fuel-to-oxygen mixture is either rich or lean, therefore, your ignition coils may fail prematurely. Additionally, engine heat and vibrations can cause damage to ignition coils. Nevertheless, on most vehicles can go 80,000 to 100,000 miles before requiring an ignition coil replacement. 10. Is it worth replacing ignition coil? Your car won’t run properly if you have a faulty ignition coil. It’s definitely recommended to replace it immediately when symptoms appear. 11. Can you replace just one ignition coil? Yes. If only one coil has failed, it’s fine to change just the one. You’ll also find multi-packs if you’d prefer to change the others that are aging or you’d like to have spares on hand. 12. Should I replace ignition coils with spark plugs? It’s not necessary to replace ignition coils as part of a spark plug replacement. However, if your coils are inexpensive and they’re difficult to get at, you might want to consider changing them pre-emptively. Ignition Coil For Fiat 500 1.4L 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 68070492AB 1. What Is an Ignition Coil? The ignition coil functions as part of the ignition system, alongside the switch battery, alternator, spark plugs and distributor. Your vehicle’s ignition coil converts the low current from a car battery into enough power to ignite the fuel and start the engine. When there is a problem with an ignition coil, it can cause a range of mechanical and performance issues. 2. Types of Ignition Coils: Distributor coils: This type of ignition coil uses a mechanically driven distributor mechanism. It’s usually found on older vehicles and was very common until the 1990s. Pencil coils/coil-on-plug ignition coils: This type of coil is mounted right on top of the spark plug. This means the high-voltage pulse is generated directly at spark plug, without the need for cables, so there’s no loss of voltage. It’s also a very compact design and doesn’t take up much space in the engine bay, which is why they’re commonly used in modern cars. Ignition coil packs: Coil packs have multiple pencil coils mounted within a single, compact unit known as a “rail”. This is then fitted across a row of several spark plugs. Can ignition coils: Very old and vintage vehicles often have canister-type ignition coils. Some versions are even filled with oil, which acts as an insulator and helps cool the coil, while others use a more modern solid insulator. They’re usually found in cars with breaker-type ignition systems. 3. Symptoms of a bad ignition coil There’s a chance you’ll never need to replace an ignition coil on your car, but if it is necessary, you’ll have symptoms show up. For other issues, symptoms can be intermittent but a failed coil almost always has constant problems. Signs of a bad ignition coil can include: A Check Engine Light. There will be a constant misfire in the cylinder associated with the bad coil, and the Check Engine Light will illuminate with related codes. The engine won’t run as well as it did. Effectively, you have a dead cylinder when the ignition coil isn’t working. It can feel like the engine is stumbling or about to stall. Your emissions will be higher. Because unburned fuel is being pushed into the exhaust, you may notice a raw fuel smell from the tailpipe or black smoke indicating a rich condition. Your fuel efficiency will drop. The other cylinders need to compensate for the issue, so more fuel is consumed as you drive. Your engine might not start. Especially if you have more than one bad coil or if you have an older car with a points system, electronic coil, or distributor-less coil, the engine might not fire up at all. 4. How to test an ignition coil? While the symptoms we’ve shared above could all be signs of a bad ignition coil, it’s not necessarily a guarantee that this is the cause of the problem, as another part of the ignition system or engine could be to blame. So, you’ll want to test the function of the ignition coil to confirm that it’s defective before you carry out any repairs. Step 1: Prep the car and get ready Start by parking your car on an even surface and engaging the handbrake. Wait for the engine to cool down fully, then disconnect the negative battery cable. Step 2: Find the resistance Next, check your car owner’s handbook to find the correct resistance reading for your car’s ignition coil. This is measured in ohms (indicated by the symbol) and is usually specified as a range rather than an exact figure. Step 3: Locate the coil Locate the ignition coil. Exactly where this will be depends on the make and model of car and the type of coil, but it’s normally located right above the engine or mounted on top of the spark plugs. Step 4: Disconnect the coil Remove any plastic covers or harnessing which may be covering the ignition coils. Step 5: Test the primary wire Locate the primary wire. This is normally made of heavy wire and receives energy from the battery. Connect the multimeter’s positive and negative leads to the corresponding terminals on the coil. Take the reading on the multimeter and compare it to the recommended resistance reading for the primary winding given in your owner’s manual. The resistance on the primary is normally around 0.4 to 2 ohms for most cars, but it can vary from vehicle to vehicle. If the reading doesn’t fall within the correct range, it’s defective and the coil should be replaced. Step 6: Test the secondary wire Next, test the secondary wire. This will be thinner than the primary winding, with many more coils. Connect the multimeter to the positive terminal and the high-output terminal that connects to the spark plug. Take a reading and compare it with the resistance stated in the handbook. For most cars, this will around 6,000 to 10,000 ohms. Again, if the reading doesn’t match up, you’ll need to replace the entire ignition coil. Step 7: Repeat until all coils in the unit have been tested If your coil has several coils inside one unit, you’ll need to keep repeating steps 5 and 6 until all the primary and secondary winding’s in the coils have been tested. Step 8: Finish up Remove the multimeter. If all the resistance readings were within the specified range, and you can’t see any visible signs of damage or wear and tear, you can re-install the coils and replace the mounting bolts. Remember to re-attach the negative battery cable before you close the bonnet. If the testing revealed the coils to be faulty, you can take out the defective coil and fit a replacement. Skip to step 4 of the section below to find out how to do this. If the coils seem fine but you’re still having trouble with the ignition system, you may want to take your car to a professional. 7. How To Change an Ignition Coils? Before you start work, gather the following tools and equipment: A replacement ignition coil. Something to label loose cables with, like coloured tape or marking pens. This isn’t essential, but it can make the job a bit easier. Protective gloves. A set of hand tools, including a wrench, screwdriver set, socket set, and ratchet. The owner’s handbook. It may also help to have the relevant Haynes manual for your car, although this is not essential. Step 1: Prepare the car Park the car on a level surface and engage the handbrake to keep it steady. Then, disconnect the negative battery terminal. Tip: You should always disconnect the negative battery cable during any of your car’s electrical systems. This will ensure you don’t accidentally ground the circuit, which can give you a nasty shock and potentially damage your car. Step 2: Locate the coil Find the ignition coil inside the engine bay. The owner’s handbook can help you with this if you’re unsure. Step 3: Disconnect and remove the coil Find the mounting bolts and screws that attach the coil to the vehicle. Using your hand tools, remove each of the bolts and set aside. You will also need to disconnect the electrical connectors that link the coil to the car.You’ll need to make sure that the wires are attached to the corresponding terminals on the new ignition coil, so it may help to label each wire using some tape or a marker pen to help you keep track of which is which.The ignition coil should pop off easily once these are removed. Set it to one side. Step 4: Fit the replacement ignition coil Install the new ignition coil. Reconnect the electrical cables first — if there are multiple cables, be very careful to make sure you connect each one to the corresponding terminal on the new coil. Replace the mounting bolts or screws last and tighten them. There’s no need to overtighten them, as this could damage or break them. They only need to be tight enough to keep the ignition coil securely attached. Step 5: Check your work Once the new coil is fitted, you’ll want to test it using a multimeter to make sure it’s working correctly. To do this, follow the method for testing the ignition coil outlined above. If everything seems to be working well, you can re-connect the negative battery cable and lower the hood. Then, try turning the engine on. If the engine starts normally, you can go for a test drive. If the engine fails to start or takes a few tries to turn over, you may want to check that the electrical connections between the ignition coil and the car are sound. If the engine still does not work after this, you will need to take your car to a professional mechanic for further testing. 8. Where Is a Vehicle’s Ignition Coil? The location of your vehicle’s ignition coil or coils depends on its make and model. Some vehicles have an ignition coil attached to every spark plug on the top of the engine block. Others have a single coil that ignites every spark plug in the engine. Furthermore, you may have a vehicle that has a cluster of ignition coils in a single pack. 9. Why Do Ignition Coils Fail? Most ignition coils are durable components, but they are neither indestructible nor designed to last forever. Ignition coils tend to fail because of bad spark plugs or plug wires. If your vehicle’s fuel-to-oxygen mixture is either rich or lean, therefore, your ignition coils may fail prematurely. Additionally, engine heat and vibrations can cause damage to ignition coils. Nevertheless, on most vehicles can go 80,000 to 100,000 miles before requiring an ignition coil replacement. 10. Is it worth replacing ignition coil? Your car won’t run properly if you have a faulty ignition coil. It’s definitely recommended to replace it immediately when symptoms appear. 11. Can you replace just one ignition coil? Yes. If only one coil has failed, it’s fine to change just the one. You’ll also find multi-packs if you’d prefer to change the others that are aging or you’d like to have spares on hand. 12. Should I replace ignition coils with spark plugs? It’s not necessary to replace ignition coils as part of a spark plug replacement. However, if your coils are inexpensive and they’re difficult to get at, you might want to consider changing them pre-emptively. Item Specifics Brand SCITOO Fitment Type Direct Replacement Placement on Vehicle Front Manufacturer Part Number CB163160S01 OE/OEM Part Number UF649 Manufacturer Warranty 1 Year Connector Gender Female Condition New Universal Fitment No Terminal Type Blade Custom Bundle No Attachment Method Bolt On Color Black Interchange Part Number 68070492AB Terminal Gende Male Superseded Part Number 68070492AC, 68070492AD Voltage 12V Quantity 1 Terminal Quantity 3 Pins Picture Package 1 x Ignition Coil Shipping WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm – www.P65Warnings.ca.gov. 1. Package handling takes about 2 business days at our warehouse, so please make sure entering correct payment and shipping information before checking out. Once your payment is completed, we are not going to accept any more changes to your order. 2.All domestic orders will be shipped via USPS, UPS or Fedex from our US warehouse and usually arrives to your door in about 2-7 business days. 3.Local pick up is not available. 4.Orders to the rest of world may be shipped out from our warehouse in HongKong. 5.International Buyers C Please Note: a. Import duties, taxes and charges are not included in the item price or shipping charges. These charges are the buyers responsibility. b. Please check with your country customs office to determine what these additional costs will be prior to bidding/buying. ] Payment [We only accept payment through PayPal. 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What Is an Ignition Coil? The ignition coil functions as part of the ignition system, alongside the switch battery, alternator, spark plugs and distributor. Your vehicle’s ignition coil converts the low current from a car battery into enough power to ignite the fuel and start the engine. When there is a problem with an ignition coil, it can cause a range of mechanical and performance issues. 2. Types of Ignition Coils: Distributor coils: This type of ignition coil uses a mechanically driven distributor mechanism. It’s usually found on older vehicles and was very common until the 1990s. Pencil coils/coil-on-plug ignition coils: This type of coil is mounted right on top of the spark plug. This means the high-voltage pulse is generated directly at spark plug, without the need for cables, so there’s no loss of voltage. It’s also a very compact design and doesn’t take up much space in the engine bay, which is why they’re commonly used in modern cars. Ignition coil packs: Coil packs have multiple pencil coils mounted within a single, compact unit known as a “rail”. This is then fitted across a row of several spark plugs. Can ignition coils: Very old and vintage vehicles often have canister-type ignition coils. Some versions are even filled with oil, which acts as an insulator and helps cool the coil, while others use a more modern solid insulator. They’re usually found in cars with breaker-type ignition systems. 3. Symptoms of a bad ignition coil There’s a chance you’ll never need to replace an ignition coil on your car, but if it is necessary, you’ll have symptoms show up. For other issues, symptoms can be intermittent but a failed coil almost always has constant problems. Signs of a bad ignition coil can include: A Check Engine Light. There will be a constant misfire in the cylinder associated with the bad coil, and the Check Engine Light will illuminate with related codes. The engine won’t run as well as it did. Effectively, you have a dead cylinder when the ignition coil isn’t working. It can feel like the engine is stumbling or about to stall. Your emissions will be higher. Because unburned fuel is being pushed into the exhaust, you may notice a raw fuel smell from the tailpipe or black smoke indicating a rich condition. Your fuel efficiency will drop. The other cylinders need to compensate for the issue, so more fuel is consumed as you drive. Your engine might not start. Especially if you have more than one bad coil or if you have an older car with a points system, electronic coil, or distributor-less coil, the engine might not fire up at all. 4. How to test an ignition coil? While the symptoms we’ve shared above could all be signs of a bad ignition coil, it’s not necessarily a guarantee that this is the cause of the problem, as another part of the ignition system or engine could be to blame. So, you’ll want to test the function of the ignition coil to confirm that it’s defective before you carry out any repairs. Step 1: Prep the car and get ready Start by parking your car on an even surface and engaging the handbrake. Wait for the engine to cool down fully, then disconnect the negative battery cable. Step 2: Find the resistance Next, check your car owner’s handbook to find the correct resistance reading for your car’s ignition coil. This is measured in ohms (indicated by the symbol) and is usually specified as a range rather than an exact figure. Step 3: Locate the coil Locate the ignition coil. Exactly where this will be depends on the make and model of car and the type of coil, but it’s normally located right above the engine or mounted on top of the spark plugs. Step 4: Disconnect the coil Remove any plastic covers or harnessing which may be covering the ignition coils. Step 5: Test the primary wire Locate the primary wire. This is normally made of heavy wire and receives energy from the battery. Connect the multimeter’s positive and negative leads to the corresponding terminals on the coil. Take the reading on the multimeter and compare it to the recommended resistance reading for the primary winding given in your owner’s manual. The resistance on the primary is normally around 0.4 to 2 ohms for most cars, but it can vary from vehicle to vehicle. If the reading doesn’t fall within the correct range, it’s defective and the coil should be replaced. Step 6: Test the secondary wire Next, test the secondary wire. This will be thinner than the primary winding, with many more coils. Connect the multimeter to the positive terminal and the high-output terminal that connects to the spark plug. Take a reading and compare it with the resistance stated in the handbook. For most cars, this will around 6,000 to 10,000 ohms. Again, if the reading doesn’t match up, you’ll need to replace the entire ignition coil. Step 7: Repeat until all coils in the unit have been tested If your coil has several coils inside one unit, you’ll need to keep repeating steps 5 and 6 until all the primary and secondary winding’s in the coils have been tested. Step 8: Finish up Remove the multimeter. If all the resistance readings were within the specified range, and you can’t see any visible signs of damage or wear and tear, you can re-install the coils and replace the mounting bolts. Remember to re-attach the negative battery cable before you close the bonnet. If the testing revealed the coils to be faulty, you can take out the defective coil and fit a replacement. Skip to step 4 of the section below to find out how to do this. If the coils seem fine but you’re still having trouble with the ignition system, you may want to take your car to a professional. 7. How To Change an Ignition Coils? Before you start work, gather the following tools and equipment: A replacement ignition coil. Something to label loose cables with, like coloured tape or marking pens. This isn’t essential, but it can make the job a bit easier. Protective gloves. A set of hand tools, including a wrench, screwdriver set, socket set, and ratchet. The owner’s handbook. It may also help to have the relevant Haynes manual for your car, although this is not essential. Step 1: Prepare the car Park the car on a level surface and engage the handbrake to keep it steady. Then, disconnect the negative battery terminal. Tip: You should always disconnect the negative battery cable during any of your car’s electrical systems. This will ensure you don’t accidentally ground the circuit, which can give you a nasty shock and potentially damage your car. Step 2: Locate the coil Find the ignition coil inside the engine bay. The owner’s handbook can help you with this if you’re unsure. Step 3: Disconnect and remove the coil Find the mounting bolts and screws that attach the coil to the vehicle. Using your hand tools, remove each of the bolts and set aside. You will also need to disconnect the electrical connectors that link the coil to the car.You’ll need to make sure that the wires are attached to the corresponding terminals on the new ignition coil, so it may help to label each wire using some tape or a marker pen to help you keep track of which is which.The ignition coil should pop off easily once these are removed. Set it to one side. Step 4: Fit the replacement ignition coil Install the new ignition coil. Reconnect the electrical cables first — if there are multiple cables, be very careful to make sure you connect each one to the corresponding terminal on the new coil. Replace the mounting bolts or screws last and tighten them. There’s no need to overtighten them, as this could damage or break them. They only need to be tight enough to keep the ignition coil securely attached. Step 5: Check your work Once the new coil is fitted, you’ll want to test it using a multimeter to make sure it’s working correctly. To do this, follow the method for testing the ignition coil outlined above. If everything seems to be working well, you can re-connect the negative battery cable and lower the hood. Then, try turning the engine on. If the engine starts normally, you can go for a test drive. If the engine fails to start or takes a few tries to turn over, you may want to check that the electrical connections between the ignition coil and the car are sound. If the engine still does not work after this, you will need to take your car to a professional mechanic for further testing. 8. Where Is a Vehicle’s Ignition Coil? The location of your vehicle’s ignition coil or coils depends on its make and model. Some vehicles have an ignition coil attached to every spark plug on the top of the engine block. Others have a single coil that ignites every spark plug in the engine. Furthermore, you may have a vehicle that has a cluster of ignition coils in a single pack. 9. Why Do Ignition Coils Fail? Most ignition coils are durable components, but they are neither indestructible nor designed to last forever. Ignition coils tend to fail because of bad spark plugs or plug wires. If your vehicle’s fuel-to-oxygen mixture is either rich or lean, therefore, your ignition coils may fail prematurely. Additionally, engine heat and vibrations can cause damage to ignition coils. Nevertheless, on most vehicles can go 80,000 to 100,000 miles before requiring an ignition coil replacement. 10. Is it worth replacing ignition coil? Your car won’t run properly if you have a faulty ignition coil. It’s definitely recommended to replace it immediately when symptoms appear. 11. Can you replace just one ignition coil? Yes. If only one coil has failed, it’s fine to change just the one. You’ll also find multi-packs if you’d prefer to change the others that are aging or you’d like to have spares on hand. 12. Should I replace ignition coils with spark plugs? It’s not necessary to replace ignition coils as part of a spark plug replacement. However, if your coils are inexpensive and they’re difficult to get at, you might want to consider changing them pre-emptively. ShippingPaymentReturnsCustomer ServicesFeedback WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm – www.P65Warnings.ca.gov. 1. Package handling takes about 2 business days at our warehouse, so please make sure entering correct payment and shipping information before checking out. 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